Volvo 780 2013 - mid 144 psid 230 fmi 5 (2024)

Hello, I’ve got this code “mid 144 psid 230 fmi 5” on Volvo 780 2013. I already replaced the batteries, replaced the alternator. It still comes up. Truck looses power for just a second, abs lights come up, then it goes back to normal. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

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Probably PDM under hood.

Did you fix the problem because I’m having the same problem please let me know thank

Hello, I’ve got this code “mid 144 psid 230 fmi 5” on Volvo 670 2014. I already replaced the batteries, replaced the alternator to. It still comes up. Truck looses power for just a second, abs lights come up, then it goes back to normal. Any ideas?

I have no idea but I did a search of that code. It seems most popular solution, other than loose wire. Was had to change the "gas" pedal.

I would suggest you post this question in the mechanics forum.

Found this code. I'm not clear yet what's the problem but it's come on bumps and bad roads !?!?

On dash TCS ABS lights comes and goes and cruise control stop working for a second. Suggestion?

I have been fighting the same code on my 2007 Volvo VNL670 with a Cummins ISX CM870 engine. I pretty much get the same symptoms as you all! In the dash diagnostics menu, under vehicle faults I have the active code mid 144 psid 230 fmi 5, ABS light is on due to that code and I'll loose power for a split second in sharp curves and turns. The other day, my head lights went out and came back on within 2 seconds. All this started when I got my semi back from the shop after they did an engine rebuild (Inframe). First thing I realized I had no brake lights at all, just turn signals. They got under the truck and "fixed it!!!" Not really, as usually! I still see 2 led lights on out of the 18ish I have in the brake light, even with the lights and truck turned off. The last thing I realized when I got the truck back from the shop is that sometimes I can turn the truck on without depressing the clutch and sometimes I can't unless I depress the clutch. It used to always start without touching the clutch paddle. Anyway, to get back on track here, I decided to change my batteries since they were 3 years old and cleaned up all the electrical connections, found 2 wires had been rubbed through the insulation that sit above the batteries, cut out the bad spots and shortened the wired and waterproofed the splits where I cut them. Even changed the Battery kill switch with a new one, but all this to no prevail. Leaves me to believe there is a problem between the engine ECM/ECU and the batteries. I will check the pins and wires on the ECM next and try to test the voltage and ohm out some of the wires and visually inspect them. If any of you guys finds the problems on your end, please help the rest of us out here and let us know what the cause was. I will repost in the next coming days if I had any luck. Would have done it today along with the batteries swap, but at 116F in Vegas, I got to the point where it was either to give up or end up in the emergency room. Good luck guys, and hopefully one of us finds this bug sooner than later.